Five of Queen Elizabeth II’s most iconic outfits – from new royal exhibit
Five of Queen Elizabeth II’s most iconic outfits – from new royal exhibit
Queen Elizabeth II’s fashion choices, though understated and traditional, became a powerful symbol of her enduring presence. Over her 70-year reign, her outfits—whether the elegant hats and vibrant coats she wore at public events or the simple tweeds and tartans of her casual moments—were carefully crafted to reflect both practicality and subtle messages of national identity and global influence.
A recent display at The King’s Gallery in Buckingham Palace highlights this legacy, featuring over 200 items spanning her 10 decades of service. The exhibit coincides with the centenary of her birth on 10 April, tracing how Britain evolved alongside her. Among the standout pieces, five iconic ensembles have been selected to illustrate her sartorial impact.
The Harris Tweed and Balmoral Tartan Ensemble
One such piece is a Harris tweed jacket paired with a Balmoral Tartan skirt, first worn by the Queen in the 1950s. Designed by Norman Hartnell, this outfit became a recurring element in her off-duty attire. While its modest appearance may seem unassuming, royal fashion expert Marian Kwei notes it carried deeper significance.
“The fabrics were intended to promote British fashion, excellence and production,” Kwei explains. “Weaved into the feminine cut and subdued tones are connotations of stability, dependence and soft power. It’s ‘I’m in charge,’ without being too loud about it.”
Despite its traditional look, the ensemble’s design subtly reinforced the Queen’s role as a unifying figure. Its influence on modern designers is evident, as seen in luxury brand Miu Miu’s 2024 Balmoral collection, which reimagined her tartan kilts.
The 1953 Coronation Dress
The Queen’s 1953 Coronation dress, also by Hartnell, is another highlight. Made from Kent silk and adorned with gold bugle beads, diamantés, and pearls, it features intricate embroideries that symbolize unity. The dress incorporates the floral emblems of the UK’s four nations—England’s Tudor rose, Scotland’s thistle, Wales’s leek, and Ireland’s shamrock—and later added the Canadian maple leaf and India’s lotus flower at her request.
“The gown was pretty much a nod to Britain and the Commonwealth,” says Kwei. “It’s really an indication of the kind of Queen we had and how she reigned.”
Curator Caroline de Guitaut emphasizes the dress’s role in establishing the Queen’s image as a global leader, blending national pride with diplomatic grace.
The 1957 Apple Crisp Green Gown
A 1957 sleeveless green gown, designed by Hartnell for a banquet honoring US President Dwight Eisenhower, showcases her ability to balance tradition with international appeal. Worn during a Cold War-era visit to strengthen transatlantic ties, the dress’s color—described as “apple crisp green”—has sparked debate about its symbolism.
“It’s absolutely beautiful,” de Guitaut remarks, “but I can’t quite see an overt reference in it to be honest.”
Kwei suggests the hue might reference American culture, noting that apples have become synonymous with classical American imagery, from New York’s nickname to the theme of “American Pie.” The dress, she says, conveyed a message of shared values: “I’m Britain’s sovereign, this is us, but I’m also nodding to you.”
Throughout her reign, the Queen used her wardrobe to project confidence and continuity, even as the world around her changed. Her choices remain a testament to the quiet strength of royal fashion as a tool for diplomacy and national identity.
